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The grave slab of Niall Mór, Chief fo Banagh
The Mac Sweeney Doe grave slab at Doe Castle.
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The Niall Mór Headstone
Erected at St. Mary of the Visitation Church, Killybegs, Co. Donegal.
Article by Moira Mallon, Killybegs, Co Donegal.
Committee Member County Donegal Historical Society.
First Published in 'Dearchadh -The Ardara View', 2004-2005.
(We are grateful to heraldic scholars and historians who have given us permission to publish their work.)
Niall Mór McSwyney (Mac Sweeney) was, according to the Four Masters, one of the most eminent members of the Clan McSwyne of Banagh, or indeed Tirconaill. He died at his castle at Rahan, St. John's Point, Dunkineely, on the 14th of December 1524.
(The Annals of the Four Masters recorded his death, under the year 1524, thus:
Mac Sweeney of Tir Boghaine, i.e. Niall More, the son of Owen, the most renowned constable of his own noble tribe for action and heroism, for determination of mind and counsel, for arraying and attacking, for hospitality and generosity, for great troops and active warriors, by whom most dangerous passes were forced, died after extreme unction and repentance, in his own castle at Rahain, on the 14th of December.)
Niall Mór was buried within the precincts of the Franciscan Church at Ballysaggart, St. John's Point, which his father, had founded and built for the Franciscan Friars of theThird Order. His grave was marked by a unique and remarkable headstone which is to-day preserved at St. Mary's Church, Killybegs, to which it was removed at the request of Monsignor Stephens P.P. in order to protect it from the effects of the weather. Monsignor Stephens was Parish Priest of Killybegs/ Killaghtee. Some years previously he served as Curate in Killaghtee, when Dr. William Drummonds was his Parish Priest in Killybegs. Monsignor Stephens would have an intimate knowledge of the Killaghtee part of the Parish and would know of the Niall Mór headstone and other antiquities of St. John's Point. At this time he was writing a book Illustrated Hand Book of South West Donegal which was published a few years later. He was also a friend of Thomas Colin McKinley (1830-1887) who was principal of Croagh National School. His famous book The Cliff Scenery of South Western Donegal was published a year before the removal of the headstone to Killybegs. This book was re-printed by Four Masters Press Ltd. Dublin, in 2000. Tomas Colin McGinley wrote under the name Kinnfaela.
The Niall Mór Headstone was erected inside St. Mary's Church near the rear wall, and was there for eighty five years, until it was removed outside during repairs to the church in 1953. It can be seen to the left of the main door. The headstone is now protected from the weather by a glass panel, which was erected a few years ago at the request of Fr. Lorcan Sharkey P.P. According to the Four Masters, Niall Mór was an honoured chieftain of Banagh, famed for his hospitality and prowess, and his heroism in battle. His main residence was at Rahan, St John's Point. He had other castles in and around Killybegs and Kilcar. One was on a small headland known as Castle Point, in Killybegs Harbour. This area is now occupied by Mooney Boats; another large castle was at Bavin in Kilcar Parish.
According to Kinnfaela (Thomas C. McGinley) in his book published 1867 “The old church of Ballysaggart stood in a secluded spot between two grassy hills, close to the noisy surges of the Eastern shore of St. John's Point. It is a plain oblong structure about fifty feet long and twenty feet wide. The walls are formed of dark limestone and pierced with mullioned windows, highly elaborate in execution and finish. The designs of the columnar jambs of the doors and windows of this ancient Church have been copied with fine effect into the new Church of St. Mary's Killybegs (opened for Christmas Eve Mass 1844) by the late Dr William Drummond P.P. One of these model pillars may still be seen standing at the Parochial House, opposite the door of St. Mary's doing service as a gate-post, and arrests the attention of the passers-by on account of its antique appearance.”
Kinnfaela continued to say that “the principal object of attraction to the visitor at this ancient and venerable spot, is a large slab of stone, apparently unconnected with the structure. It is about the size of an ordinary grave stone, but wider at one end than the other, and is made of the finest granulated sandstone - well polished. Its entire surface is marked out into square compartments, arranged in two rows, one row on each side. Some of the compartments are filled in with the finest tracery, all in relief, such as may be seen on the ancient crosses of Monasterboice and other places. In one of these compartments there is the well wrought figure of an Irish mailed warrior, with moustache, and flowing beard, wearing a helmet with plume of horse-hair, a sword by his side, and holding a battle axe in his hand. In another compartment are represented two skilled athletes in the act of wrestling. In a third may be observed a well executed coat of arms bearing the effigy of the Irish elk. I have not observed anything in the character of an inscription, nor am I able to say whether there are similar devices on the underside of the stone“.
The slab seems to be related to another slab at Doe Castle, North West Donegal, another stronghold of the Mac Sweeney clan. The ancient name Mac Suibhne (Mac Sweeney) is first recorded in 615 A.D. when a member of the clan was High King of Ireland. A Mac Suibhne bishop was in Armagh in 730 A.D. and another Suibhne was abbot of Iona in 766 A.D. About 1000 A.D. the clan conquered Western Scotland, and later their descendants returned to Ireland in the 13th and 14th centuries and became powerful once again.
The Removal of the Headstone to St Mary's Church.
Local tradition maintained that the Headstone or the slab was taken to Killybegs by horse and cart from its resting place at the Franciscan Church dedicated to St. John. There is another remarkable and interesting story regarding the removal of the headstone to the safe haven of St. Mary's Church in 1868. The story gives great insight into the character of the Parish Priest Father James Stephens (later Monsignor Stephens). Fr. Stephens came from a wealthy Ballyshannon family. He was educated on the Continent, he liked to travel, and was a man of culture, a scholar of history and literature, and was often visited by men of culture of the day. He planned the removal of the Headstone with precision and care, and left nothing to chance. He received information from a reliable person, from the Killaghtee part of the Parish, with the alarming news that the authorities were planning to remove the Niall Mór gravestone to another place. Fr. Stephens moved quickly and secretly. He would have known many people from St. John's Point, since the time he was curate in Killaghtee. His good friend Thomas Colin McGinley was headmaster in Croagh National School and would have known who could be trusted to help the priest. He came up with a brilliant plan to move the stone by sea, and take it to Killybegs. To transport it by road to Killybegs would attract attention, and perhaps get the people involved into trouble with the law. 
Fr. Stephens approached two brothers, Patrick and Michael McBrearty from Largynagreena, Killybegs. He knew that they had a yawl for seasonal fishing, and they promised to help. They in turn approached two young men, neighbours, as they needed four men to man the boat, and to move the headstone safely. Another neighbour of the McBreartys named Rogers did minor repairs to the boat. Meantime, the same number of men were required at Ballysaggart, to remove the stone from where it rested for three hundred and forty years in the precincts The route taken from Killybegs to Ballysaggart.
of the Franciscan Church.
The boat journey took approximately eight hours for the McBrearty brothers and friends from Killybegs to the eastern side of St. John's Point and back again. The trip took place in Winter in darkness. Leaving Killybegs behind them, they continued out into the open sea beyond Rotten Island Lighthouse, and out around the St. John's Point Lighthouse and its dangerous rocks, continuing along the Eastern side to Ballysaggart. They eventually reached the landing stage to collect the Headstone. The men were waiting there, probably guiding the boatmen with lights to the landing. The Headstone had to be carried with great care, while it was being lifted on to the yawl, and in order to keep the boat steady, as there was always the danger of it capsizing. The return journey to Killybegs would have been much more dangerous, with the heavy stone and the men on board. They landed at a small pier and slipway at the bottom of Chapel Lane (this pier and slipway disappeared when the Railway Station and goods-yard were built on the land reclaimed from the sea, in the early eighteen nineties). There were other men waiting at the pier to help bring the stone up the Chapel Brae to the safety of St. Mary's Church. It was reported that Fr. Stephens spent the night in the Church praying for their safe return. It must have been a great relief to him when the four young men returned safely from their dangerous mission. Those four young men risked their lives to bring the Niall Mór Headstone to a safer place. The stone was installed in St. Mary's Church before the dawn of a new day. Fr. Stephens was Parish Priest of Killybegs and Killaghtee for twenty three years from 1863 to 1886. He died suddenly while on a visit to his brother in Ballyshannon. He is buried in St. Mary's cemetery in Killybegs.
Patrick and Michael McBrearty returned to farming in Largynagreen, lived long lives and never married. They are also buried in St. Mary's Cemetery. They had another brother Myles, the great grandfather of Tommy McBrearty, Fintra Road, my informant, who confirmed the story that was first told to me some years ago by the late Agnes McIntyre, Aileach House, Donegal Road, where the Killybegs Community Hospital now stands. The late Mary McGinn, Bridge Street, first cousin of Tommy McBrearty and great grandaughter of Myles McBrearty also related the story to me. Other families who lived in Largynagreena around 1868, were McGuinness, Keeney, Byrne, McIntyre, Curran and Rogers. It was from these neighbour's families that the two other young men came forward to rescue the Headstone. Fr. Stephens would have been fully aware of the disappearance of the very ancient St. Conal's Bell (6th Century) from Ardara Parish and he was determined that the same fate would not happen to the Niall Mór Headstone.
Sources:
Tommy McBrearty, Fintra Road, Kilybegs.
Tommy Hegarty, Donegal Road, Killybegs.
The late Mary McGinn, Bridge Street, Killybegs.
The late Agnes McIntyre, Aileach Huse, Killybegs.
The late Joe O Donnell, Benroe, Bruckless.
Histories and Antiquities of Killybegs, By Charles Conaghan.
In Conall's Footsteps, By Lochlann McGill.
Byegones! By Pat Conaghan.
The Cliff Scenery of South Western Donegal, By Kinnfaela.
28 November, 2005
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